Cambodian Road Rules
[Preface: This was originally sent as an email on 10 May 2004 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I (Dave) have made minor stylistic edits to the original. Click on the photo to enlarge.]
(This is actually my second try at this; the first time the computer cut seconds before i was going to send it. just another of the many lessons in patience we have received!)
Those of you who find yourself cursing at perpetually red traffic lights, slow drivers, and speed limits, Phnom Penh may be the place for you. Cambodian traffic is governed by only one rule: don't let another vehicle hit you! Seriously... to the uninitiated bystander, PP traffic resembles a nighttime swarm of moths under a porch light: chaotic to say the least. For example, simply entering an intersection is equivalent to vehicular Russian roulette: you never know if it will be the last time you enter an intersection. Barb and I have driven throughout much of the city and have seen traffic lights at only four intersections (and these only provide minimal guidance); every where else, vehicles merge into traffic as it is possible, and sometimes when it appears impossible. It is not out of the ordinary to see a moto (125cc motorbike) turn left into oncoming traffic in an attempt to merge into the right hand lane. Many times we have seen an intersection flooded with vehicles from all four directions only to sort itself out minutes later. Much of the potential tension caused by this situation is alleviated by the fact that 75% of the vehicles on the road are motos (easy to manoeuver and drive in between oncoming vehicles), many who drive between 20-40 km/h.
Once on the back of a moto, the governing principle behind PP traffic becomes clear: survival of the fittest (driver, that is). The best drivers are clearly the ones who are able to avoid the most PCSs (Potential Collision Situations). Thankfully, we were able to hook up with a great driver.
His name is Thou (as in two), he speaks great english, and knows practically every place and person (including tourists, many who are 'his customers') in the city, so he ended up being a great guide in addition to a safe driver. We were fortunate enough to have him on retainer (he gave us his cell number and dropped everything when we called) for the last week, which meant we were guaranteed a ride. He even went so far as to hook us up with drivers once we got to Siem Reap. Anyone planning on visiting Phnom Penh should be sure to get his number from us (or email); he is always looking for new Canadian customers!
PP is a city with amazing provincial charm. Much of the French colonial architecture is still standing (though some of it is in rough shape) along with many traditional Khmer buildings. The best example of this is along the Tonle Sap river. the street scape here could easily be exchanged with a scene from a provincial French town, with its sidewalk cafes and lush boulevards (except exchange the French people for Cambodians).
Integrated throughout are traditional Khmer wats (temples), including the headquarters of the Cambodian Buddhist hierarchy. The crown jewel of this area is the royal palace, a dazzling array of colour and flare.
Yet, the greatest contributing factor to PP's charm is its people. In Cambodia, life is lived in the streets and public places (a fair estimate would say that approx 85-90% of the city's pop. is out-of-doors during sunlight hours). As a result, a walk through any part of the city provides multiple snapshots into Cambodian life. The streets are places of work, play, debate, and most importantly, meals. The air is abuzz with chatter, laughter and singing (and honking horns; it is safe to say that drivers use their horns more than their brakes). It is not surprising to find groups gathered in the shade to avoid the midday heat, or families and friends gathered at the curbside for an evening meal. Scantily clad children abound accompanied by watchful grandparents. Life here is lived at a different pace; the western cliche 'time is money' certainly does not apply. Time is savoured here, taken in with long slow draughts.
Above all, relationship is paramount. Every activity is social: work is more about finding pleasure being with co workers than bringing home a paycheck. Meals are inevitably community affairs, each bringing what s/he can to the potluck. It is impossible to speed up Cambodians; they will do what they need to do at their pace.
However, the streets of PP also tell about the darkside of Cambodian life. To begin with, most streets are unpaved and littered with garbage heaps. In many neighbourhoods, the streets are lined with buildings that still bear the scars of the Khmer Rouge regime (1975-79) and much of the city's housing is comprised of tightly packed shanties precariously built upon stilts (to avoid seasonal flood waters). Also, many people on the streets have resorted to begging (or employing their children as beggars, since they are much more skilled in the fine art of pulling heartstrings); The most tragic element of street life is the rampant sex toursim (which is only thinly veiled). Many parents have sold their children to the streets to be exploited by tourists in an attempt to earn money for the family. Improvement of these conditions does not appear to be on the way, as Cambodia finds itself increasing embroiled in political corruption.
All in all, one week in PP has been enough to make a lasting impression; it is an unforgettable experience. Today we moved on to Siem Reap (and the famed Angkor temple ruins) for a few days of archaeological exploration. We head back to PP on Friday.
If you have read this far, thanks. We look forward to hearing from you. Cheers; until next time (I better send this quick before the computer has a chance to cut out again!)...
(This is actually my second try at this; the first time the computer cut seconds before i was going to send it. just another of the many lessons in patience we have received!)
Those of you who find yourself cursing at perpetually red traffic lights, slow drivers, and speed limits, Phnom Penh may be the place for you. Cambodian traffic is governed by only one rule: don't let another vehicle hit you! Seriously... to the uninitiated bystander, PP traffic resembles a nighttime swarm of moths under a porch light: chaotic to say the least. For example, simply entering an intersection is equivalent to vehicular Russian roulette: you never know if it will be the last time you enter an intersection. Barb and I have driven throughout much of the city and have seen traffic lights at only four intersections (and these only provide minimal guidance); every where else, vehicles merge into traffic as it is possible, and sometimes when it appears impossible. It is not out of the ordinary to see a moto (125cc motorbike) turn left into oncoming traffic in an attempt to merge into the right hand lane. Many times we have seen an intersection flooded with vehicles from all four directions only to sort itself out minutes later. Much of the potential tension caused by this situation is alleviated by the fact that 75% of the vehicles on the road are motos (easy to manoeuver and drive in between oncoming vehicles), many who drive between 20-40 km/h.
Once on the back of a moto, the governing principle behind PP traffic becomes clear: survival of the fittest (driver, that is). The best drivers are clearly the ones who are able to avoid the most PCSs (Potential Collision Situations). Thankfully, we were able to hook up with a great driver.
His name is Thou (as in two), he speaks great english, and knows practically every place and person (including tourists, many who are 'his customers') in the city, so he ended up being a great guide in addition to a safe driver. We were fortunate enough to have him on retainer (he gave us his cell number and dropped everything when we called) for the last week, which meant we were guaranteed a ride. He even went so far as to hook us up with drivers once we got to Siem Reap. Anyone planning on visiting Phnom Penh should be sure to get his number from us (or email); he is always looking for new Canadian customers! 
PP is a city with amazing provincial charm. Much of the French colonial architecture is still standing (though some of it is in rough shape) along with many traditional Khmer buildings. The best example of this is along the Tonle Sap river. the street scape here could easily be exchanged with a scene from a provincial French town, with its sidewalk cafes and lush boulevards (except exchange the French people for Cambodians).
Integrated throughout are traditional Khmer wats (temples), including the headquarters of the Cambodian Buddhist hierarchy. The crown jewel of this area is the royal palace, a dazzling array of colour and flare.
Yet, the greatest contributing factor to PP's charm is its people. In Cambodia, life is lived in the streets and public places (a fair estimate would say that approx 85-90% of the city's pop. is out-of-doors during sunlight hours). As a result, a walk through any part of the city provides multiple snapshots into Cambodian life. The streets are places of work, play, debate, and most importantly, meals. The air is abuzz with chatter, laughter and singing (and honking horns; it is safe to say that drivers use their horns more than their brakes). It is not surprising to find groups gathered in the shade to avoid the midday heat, or families and friends gathered at the curbside for an evening meal. Scantily clad children abound accompanied by watchful grandparents. Life here is lived at a different pace; the western cliche 'time is money' certainly does not apply. Time is savoured here, taken in with long slow draughts.
Above all, relationship is paramount. Every activity is social: work is more about finding pleasure being with co workers than bringing home a paycheck. Meals are inevitably community affairs, each bringing what s/he can to the potluck. It is impossible to speed up Cambodians; they will do what they need to do at their pace. However, the streets of PP also tell about the darkside of Cambodian life. To begin with, most streets are unpaved and littered with garbage heaps. In many neighbourhoods, the streets are lined with buildings that still bear the scars of the Khmer Rouge regime (1975-79) and much of the city's housing is comprised of tightly packed shanties precariously built upon stilts (to avoid seasonal flood waters). Also, many people on the streets have resorted to begging (or employing their children as beggars, since they are much more skilled in the fine art of pulling heartstrings); The most tragic element of street life is the rampant sex toursim (which is only thinly veiled). Many parents have sold their children to the streets to be exploited by tourists in an attempt to earn money for the family. Improvement of these conditions does not appear to be on the way, as Cambodia finds itself increasing embroiled in political corruption.
All in all, one week in PP has been enough to make a lasting impression; it is an unforgettable experience. Today we moved on to Siem Reap (and the famed Angkor temple ruins) for a few days of archaeological exploration. We head back to PP on Friday.
If you have read this far, thanks. We look forward to hearing from you. Cheers; until next time (I better send this quick before the computer has a chance to cut out again!)...
posted by David Wiens at 10:35 a.m.
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